This dramatic look definitely caused jaws to drop at the Prada Fall/Winter 2009 show. To create the look, Guido states it was built by “rick-racking the hair.” Start by winding sections into figure-8 shapes around a hairpin, apply a texturizing spray, and lightly press with a flat-iron. Unwind and brush for a fluffy, airy finish.
“A collection inspired by Land Girls, 40’s military and London war times, the hairstyle for McQueen’s London show was meant to be strong, forceful and structured and reaches back into the brand’s heritage, referencing its own aesthetic of beauty,” says Guido, the stylist behind the iconic look.
“The hair itself was, in fact, a wig styled with pin curls, and then we made these elaborate cages inspired in part by certain religious icons that go over the face and head. This hairstyle is one to support the look of the show, it's not specifically just the hair itself that should be highlighted here. You really have to think about the hair as it fits in with the masks, the collection, and the overall end result the designer envisioned,” states Guido.
Guido created a soft, romantic Sicilian updo that looked truly fit for a queen—or at the very least, fit for models dressed in the beautiful Byzantine-themed Dolce & Gabbana looks at the designer's Fall 2013 show in Milan.
If "monarch" comes to mind, Guido was thinking "Italian princess" when he created this look—but he added that it wasn't supposed to make a perfectly coiffed, straight-from-the-hairdresser's impression. He was thinking of the kind of woman with inherently beautiful style, who does her hair herself.
As Guido puts it, “This elegant style is another variation of the Dolce & Gabbana woman this season, playing on that Sicilian idea of softness, romance, and a certain cinematic, womanly beauty. I took inspiration from the idea of an iconic woman with a kind of natural Italian allure—think the actress Sofia Loren or the women in the 1960 film La Dolce Vita. There's a natural ease to her beauty, she's sexy but in a conservative way. It's not at all a messy look, and it's all about the details—I wanted it to have shine, but to not at all look greasy—just a soft, glossy finish."
For this look, Guido created big, beautiful heads of curls for the Fall 2013 Marc by Marc Jacobs show that was held for the first time at Lincoln Center. The fun, playful look held its own next to the bold prints and bright gem tones in the collection.
“The inspiration for this look was a 1940’s-era woman, an uptown girl, but then we made it more fun, and thus more Marc by Marc,” says Guido. “We didn’t want it to feel symmetrical or too perfect, the back brushing gives a teased effect, a little crazy.”
“The hairstyle for McQueen is interesting in that you aren’t quite sure if the hair is paying homage to the past or a window into the future,” states Guido on the look. “There are certainly historical references at play, namely from the Elizabethan era; however, the long extensions on each temple offsetting the spiraled braids makes one unsure of where to place this style on a timeline. It’s romantic and innocent, yet dark and punk in a way. It’s anything but simple, easy hair, both to create and to digest, which is what makes the McQueen show so noteworthy.”
To create this simple and minimalistic look, Guido used a flexible-hold paste on the roots to give the hair a bit of hold and texture. “I wanted the product to hold the lines created as I raked my fingers through the hair. This technique made the style feel masculine in a way” Guido comments on the hairstyle.
“The collection this season felt more eclectic, so I wanted the hair at Valentino to be more whimsical and playful,” says Guido. “I created a simple part and added a little bit of height at the crown to give the hair a late 60s kind of feel. Regardless of these youthful subtitles, the vibe remained true to the brand’s identity. The hair is beautiful and very Valentino.”
“This look is very classically Dolce. It’s very soft, pretty and feminine—how girls want to look. I created these soft chignons with a Spanish feeling by using Wind Blown 05 to create texture throughout the hair and then pulled the hair back over the ears into a low, loose, sort of messy bun. It could look severe, but I’m doing it with my fingers to make it much softer for an overall feeling that’s very rich and luxurious” says Guido.
“The wigs we created are a total reflection of Marc Jacob’s style. He has a complete vision for his show, and the wigs really allowed us to bring this vision to life because they almost depersonalize the girls. We were inspired by the 70s and 80s and by Joey Ramone’s bowlish haircut. First, we dyed all of the wigs black and then we pre-cut them before the show so that we could custom cut them for each girl backstage to create that perfect bowl-shape with the heavy bang. The texture is also very important for this look. I sprayed Fashion Waves 07 on the wig when it was damp to create some chunky texture and then used Wind Blown 05 to add dry, airy texture so it feels a little more graphic. In the end, the look was like an illustration that came to life,” comments Guido.
To complete the darkly romantic woman at Alexander McQueen’s Fall/Winter 2015 runway show, Guido created a soft, but strategically shaped hairstyle for each girl. “The McQueen woman this season is much more romantic and soft than the more futuristic, robotic looks we’ve seen in past seasons. This romantic, melancholy idea was partly inspired by the artworks of the Austrian painter Gustav Klimt. I created this very fluffy texture, and then sculpted the hair into different shapes based on what looks best with each girl’s face shape.”
"The look at Valentino this season is very cross-cultural. The clothes have some tribal inspiration, so the hair has that feeling as well, but in a way that’s still very Valentino with the softness around the face and ears. It’s a bit influenced by the 60’s and 70’s when girls used to travel and they would bring back inspiration from other places and cultures, which is kind of an eclectic way of styling yourself. The hair almost has a Grecian feel to it as well. Redken’s Braid Aid 03 is my main product, which I used to create the cornrow twists, and then I used Redken’s Triple Take 32 hairspray to finish the style and hold everything in place. The silhouette elongates the neck, which is a bit Egyptian and very elegant and attractive,” states Guido.
“Young women nowadays aren’t afraid to push the boundaries and experiment with their hair,” says Guido. “This season’s Dolce & Gabbana show is a nod to this mindset of youth culture. All the beauty rules have been broken down to exude an idea of individualism. Each model is wearing a personalized headpiece and unique look, some with razor cut bangs, while others have hair with contrasting colors. It almost reminds me of a Disney princess, because of the slight cartoonist color of the fringes alongside the ornamental accessories. And the culmination becomes a very romantic look with an edgy, youthful twist.”
“There were two looks for the girls at the Givenchy show with one being much fiercer than the other. Some of the girls had natural hair, while others also wore a wig which gave the feel of a punk, 70s British street girl. It’s an unusual style and new to the eye,” says Guido. In fact, it was so unique that each wig had to be cut and styled separately. Talk about a commitment to style.
“Marc Jacobs’ shows are always a surprise and not what you expect. This season is unnatural and all about a character. The look is a total top-to-bottom, fun, crazy, Marc Jacobs girl. I created finger waves, an old-fashioned technique that was popular in the 20s, but I modernized the look by leaving alone the ends of the hair,” states Guido.
“In the end, you have two textures: a very sculptural, set look, and then the natural hair. It feels very gothic, strange and almost boyish. We’re so used to seeing things so precise and this look is quite arresting in a way. I used Hardwear 16 gel, which we finger-waved into the hair, and then set with Forceful 23 hairspray. It is a very set look but something that could be translated to what you might see on the street. For example, if a girl wanted to do one simple finger wave and then leave the rest of her hair natural.”