BRASSY HAIR: WHY IT HAPPENS AND HOW TO PREVENT IT

First things first: what is brassy hair? In simple terms, brassy hair refers to the unwanted warm tones that emerge in color-treated or even natural hair, particularly after it has been lightened. These tones are typically yellow hair, orange tones, or even copper tones, and they often appear as your hair color begins to fade.

Imagine stepping out of the salon with a perfectly cool-toned blonde or a rich, multi-dimensional highlighted brown hair that boasts beautiful ashy tones. Over time, that crisp, desirable shade can begin to look dull, less vibrant, and exhibit those unwelcome warm hues. This isn't just about general color fade; it's specifically the appearance of underlying pigments that become exposed.

For blondes, brassy hair most often manifests as bright or dull yellow tones. If you have naturally darker hair that has been lightened, such as brunette hair with highlights, you might notice more pronounced orange tones or even red undertones. Sometimes, you might see uneven patches of color, where some areas are still cool and others have turned noticeably brassy, often starting at the roots as your natural hair grows out and clashes with your lightened ends.

Why do these colors appear? It all comes back to the color wheel. When your hair is lightened, the natural pigment is removed. However, even after lightening, there are underlying warm pigments (red, orange, and yellow) that are always present in the hair. Your stylist uses toners during your salon visit to neutralize these warm undertones, creating that perfect cool or neutral shade. But as these toners fade, or due to external factors, those underlying warm pigments start to peek through, resulting in brassy hair color.

As Redken Artist Adina Doss explains, "If you think of a color wheel, as basic as it sounds, whatever color you want to cancel out is directly across from it. Directly across from yellow is purple. So, the purple helps eliminate the unwanted yellow colors from the hair.” Redken Artist Jaclyn Harwood adds, “It’s almost like a way to brighten the color to a cooler tone. So, if the hair has a little bit of a yellow tone, a pigmented purple shampoo is going to neutralize that warmth.” Understanding this is the first step to knowing how to combat it.

Now for the good news: there are highly effective ways to fix brassy hair and restore your desired tone. The key lies in understanding the principles of color correction and using the right products.

The most fundamental concept in combating brassiness is the color wheel. As we discussed, yellow is opposite purple, and orange/red is opposite blue. This means to neutralize unwanted yellow tones, you need purple. This is why purple shampoo is your best friend in the fight against brassiness.

Redken Artist Sami Skinner elaborates on this, stating, " Redken’s toning shampoos correct brassy and unwanted tones with ultra-pigmented formulas. When we want to cancel out brassiness in the hair, we want to utilize the pigment that’s located opposite on the color wheel, which is also considered its’ complementary color. When mixed together, these tones will neutralize, which is essentially what is done when your colorist tones your hair in the salon.”

• Purple Shampoo: This is your go-to for neutralizing yellow hair and maintaining a cool blonde. Redken Blondage Shampoo is formulated with ultra-pigmented purple to instantly counteract those yellow undertones. For best results, use it once or twice a week, or as needed, alternating with your regular color-safe conditioner. Leave it on for 3-5 minutes (check product instructions for specific timing) to allow the pigments to deposit and work their magic.

Beyond shampoos, other toning products can offer a more intensive fix:

• Hair Toner: While your stylist applies a professional hair toner in the salon (like Redken's Shades EQ Gloss) to achieve your initial desired shade and neutralize undertones, you can also use at-home toning masks and treatments. As Redken Artist Adina Doss notes, "When I lift a client's hair (colorist speak for lightening), there is an undertone that comes up, which I like to call 'raw blonde.' To get my clients to a richer, more quality blonde, I add a color treatment called a toner, specifically Redken's Shades EQ, to eliminate any undesired undertones, whether that color is yellow or yellow-orange or even a reddish undertone.” She considers this a non-negotiable step in the salon—so don't be afraid to ask for a Shades EQ Gloss during your next service at a Redken salon near you!
• Toning Mask: For a more intense treatment, incorporate a toning mask into your routine. Redken Blondage Express Anti-Brass Mask is a fantastic option for blondes, offering concentrated purple pigment for a powerful anti-brass effect. Use it weekly in place of your conditioner. For brunettes, look for a blue-pigmented mask.
• Toning Foam: Some brands offer toning foams, which can be applied to damp hair for an even distribution of color-correcting pigments.
• Color-Depositing Shampoo: These products, like our purple shampoos, contain temporary pigments that gently deposit onto the hair shaft to counteract unwanted tones.
• Glossing Service: Consider booking a quick glossing service at the salon between full color appointments. A professional gloss, often done with Redken Shades EQ, can refresh your toner, add incredible shine, and prevent brassiness from taking over. It's like a top-up for your color.

To truly get rid of brassy hair, it's also important to address the causes. Use a sulfate-free shampoo and color-safe conditioner for your regular washes to protect your color. If you suspect mineral deposits from hard water, a pre-shampoo mineral remover can help clarify your hair and allow toning products to work more effectively.

When tackling brassy hair, you have two main avenues: at-home solutions and professional salon treatments. Both play a vital role in maintaining your desired hair color, and often, the best strategy involves a combination of the two.
At-Home Redken Products for Brassy Hair: Redken offers products specifically designed to combat brassiness in the comfort of your own bathroom. These are your daily and weekly maintenance tools, essential for extending the life of your salon color and preventing brassiness from taking hold.

• Redken Blondage: This line is a must-have for all blondes. The Redken Blondage Shampoo and Redken Blondage Conditioner are infused with ultra-pigmented violet tones to neutralize yellow tones and brassiness. Redken Artist Sami Skinner enthusiastically states, “Redken Blondage is life-changing for blonde and highlighted hair. It’s perfect for guests who do not like to see any warmth in their hair. It also helps to keep blonde and highlighted hair soft and silky.” For an intensive boost, the Redken Blondage Express Anti-Brass Mask delivers powerful toning in just 5 minutes, ideal for maintaining an icy blonde.
• General Color Care: Beyond toning, using a high-quality sulfate-free shampoo and color-safe conditioner like Redken Color Extend Magnetics for your regular washes is crucial. These products protect your color from fading and keep your hair healthy, which in turn helps prevent brassiness.
• Pre-Shampoo Treatments: If hard water is a concern, a Redken Hair Cleansing Cream Shampoo can help remove mineral deposits and product buildup, ensuring your toning products can work efficiently.
• Damaged Hair Treatments: For damaged blonde hair, especially that which has undergone lightening services, the Redken Acidic Bonding Concentrate collection is a true game-changer. Lightening can significantly compromise the hair's internal bonds, leading to dryness, breakage, and dullness – all of which can make blonde look less vibrant and more prone to brassiness. Acidic Bonding Concentrate is formulated with Citric Acid and a Bonding Care Complex that works to strengthen weakened bonds within the hair, rebuilding its resilience from the inside out. This revolutionary system helps to visibly reduce breakage, improve hair elasticity, and intensely condition, leaving blonde hair feeling stronger, looking healthier, and appearing shinier. By restoring the hair's integrity, it also creates a smoother, more even surface, which in turn helps your blonde color to reflect light better and maintain its true, brilliant tone, making it an essential step in repairing and protecting compromised blonde strands.

At-home products are fantastic for routine upkeep, mild brassiness, and as a proactive measure. They allow you to control the level of toning and react quickly to any emerging warm tones. However, as Adina Doss cautions, “When you eliminate too much yellow, it visually ends up darker and a lot of people don’t want it to look darker. So if you wash your hair twice a week, use the purple shampoo only once a week to keep the hair bright but not yellow.” Jaclyn Harwood also suggests that purple shampoo can be mixed with regular shampoo to add some of the violet pigment into a regular hair cleansing routine without any risk of going overboard.

Professional Salon Solutions: While at-home products are powerful, sometimes you need the expertise of a professional colorist. Salon treatments offer more intense, long-lasting, and precise color correction.

• Professional toning service with Shades EQ : While your stylist applies a professional hair toner in the salon (like Redken's Shades EQ Gloss) to achieve your initial desired shade and neutralize undertones, you can also use at-home toning masks and treatments. As Redken Artist Adina Doss notes, "When I lift a client's hair (colorist speak for lightening), there is an undertone that comes up, which I like to call 'raw blonde.' To get my clients to a richer, more quality blonde, I add a color treatment called a toner, specifically Redken's Shades EQ, to eliminate any undesired undertones, whether that color is yellow or yellow-orange or even a reddish undertone.” She considers this a non-negotiable step in the salon—so don't be afraid to ask for a Shades EQ Gloss during your next service at Redken Salon near you!.
• Color Correction Hair Service: For more severe cases of brassy hair, or if your hair color has gone significantly off-tone, a full color correction service might be necessary. This involves your stylist expertly assessing your hair's condition and using targeted techniques and products to bring your hair back to its desired shade. This is typically a more involved process than a simple toning gloss. Redken Brand Ambassador Cassandra McGlaughlin advises, "When receiving a color correction service, it's important to work with a stylist that you trust. Be open to the process and trust your colorist. Discuss your expectations openly before the service begins and work with your colorist on a haircolor game plan." Redken Education Development Manager, Siddeeqah Raoof, adds, “The law of color tells us for optimum [color-correction hair] results, we must have optimum condition of the [hair] fiber or as close as possible to that goal. A professional consultation is very important to determine if the goals are attainable. The time needed to perform a color correction hair service varies due to the specific nature and current condition of each hair type and additional visits may be required depending on how much you want to tone or color-correct the hair.” McGlaughlin further emphasizes, "It's important to remember that color correction is a process. It can often take several appointments to achieve desired results, but remember to trust the expertise of your stylist. Be open and honest with your colorist about your budget and expectations so that they can strategize your service."
• Deep Conditioning Treatments: Healthy hair holds color better. Your stylist can recommend and apply professional deep conditioning treatments that strengthen your hair, making it less prone to damage, and consequently, less susceptible to brassiness.

The choice between at-home and salon solutions often depends on the severity of your brassy hair and your budget. For light maintenance and prevention, at-home Redken products are incredibly effective. For significant shifts in tone or professional-level refinement, a visit to your trusted Redken stylist is highly recommended. Together, these approaches form a robust strategy to keep your hair looking vibrant and brass-free.

To summarize and provide clear steps, here are Redken's top product recommendations for fighting brassy hair, along with how to use them effectively, and answers to some frequently asked questions.

Your Redken Anti-Brassy Routine:

For Blondes & Highlighted Hair (Yellow Tones):

• Redken Blondage Shampoo : Use 1-2 times per week. Lather into wet hair, leave on for 3-5 minutes (or as directed), then rinse.
• Redken Blondage Conditioner: Follow shampoo with this conditioner. Leave on for 3-5 minutes, then rinse.
• Redken Blondage Express Anti-Brass Mask: Use once a week in place of the conditioner for intense toning. Apply to damp hair, leave on for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly.

• Redken Color Extend Magnetics Shampoo and Conditioner: Use on days you're not using a toning shampoo to gently cleanse, nourish, and protect your color from fading.
• Redken All-In-One United Leave-In Treatment: This multi-benefit spray offers heat protection, detangling, and adds shine, all of which contribute to healthier, more vibrant color.
• Redken Hair Cleansing Cream Shampoo: Use periodically (e.g., once a month) to remove mineral deposits and product buildup that can dull hair and contribute to brassiness.

1. Assess Your Brassiness: Determine if you have more yellow (needs purple) or orange/red (needs blue) tones.
2. Start Gradually: Begin by using your toning shampoo once a week. If you need more toning, increase to twice a week. Remember, moderation is key; too much can sometimes lead to an over-toned, dull look.
3. Alternate: On days you're not using toning shampoo, use a color-safe shampoo and conditioner like Redken Color Extend Magnetics.
4. Mask Power: Incorporate the appropriate toning mask weekly for an extra boost of toning and conditioning.
5. Protect: Always use a heat protectant like Redken One United Leave-In Conditioner before heat styling.
6. Filter Your Water: If possible, install a shower filter to reduce mineral buildup from hard water.
7. Consult Your Stylist: Regularly check in with your Redken stylist for professional toning glosses or full color correction services if your brassy hair is persistent or severe.